A Night at the Cemetery

When I visited Koyasan last month, I signed up for a cemetery tour at Okunoin. As a medium, I was curious if I would sense spirits or paranormal activity amidst the 200,000 tombstones in the area. Since this was an evening event, some international tourists were hoping to get spooked visiting the largest cemetery in Japan. 

A young Buddhist monk named Sean arrived to lead the tour. He began by pointing out the distinct pagodas that were dotted around the 2 km site. These statues symbolize the universal elements, acknowledging that all of life is interconnected in this way. When the elements are balanced within us, our life is in more harmony. The order of the elements starts with the earth as the base, followed by water, fire, air, and space/ether.

Earth: Offers stability and resistance. Feeling grounded.

Water: Being fluid and adaptable vs. rigid and linear. Flow and flexibility.

Fire: Energy for creativity, joy, and action— the spark.

Air: Letting things breathe and move. Giving it space.

Space: (Different interpretations exist.) The space that holds the other elements.

This philosophy was shared by Kobo Daishi, a Buddhist monk who founded Koyasan and brought Shingon Buddhism to Japan.

The stone path inside the cemetery was lined with lanterns on each side. The carving of a full moon was visible on one side of each lantern. On a different part, a partial moon was shown. Sean noted that the full moon is our true nature, the light within us that is loving, compassionate and our divine essence.

Just like the different phases of the moon, darkness casts a shadow on our light. This can be due to our mind not being in a clear and pure state in how we see ourselves and others. Any harm on the mind can make it difficult to notice our light. But it is always there, no matter how hidden it is.

I am reminded of the quote by Wayne Dyer, “See the light in others. And treat them as if that’s all you see.” When we see people's flaws first, that sets a negative tone for our own experience which damages our mind. If you are not able to stay neutral, detach from your anger or judgement instead of allowing it to build. Come back into balance with the elements.

From left to right: Gorinto pagoda of the universal elements; Buddha statues at the entrance of Gobyobashi Bridge; Buddhist fire ceremony for 'wish-making'. (Can you see the figure of the woman in the fire? The side of her face, hair, and body are visible.)